Tuesday, October 20, 2026

Fighting invasions



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Trading with the World, Preserving a Kingdom: What Sri Lanka Can Learn from Thailand



Travelling through Thailand, I was struck by something that every visitor eventually hears: the country was never colonised by a European power. For a Sri Lankan, whose country experienced Portuguese, Dutch and British rule, this invites an interesting question. How did Thailand preserve its independence while so many other Asian countries lost theirs?


One possible answer lies in the way its rulers dealt with foreigners. They recognised that a foreign ship could carry customers, weapons, useful knowledge and diplomatic opportunities, as well as danger. Their task was to obtain the benefits while containing the risks.


There is considerable wisdom in this approach. However, the comparison requires care. Europeans did not always remain peaceful traders, and Sri Lankan rulers did not invariably reject commerce. Thailand’s achievement arose from a combination of trade, negotiation, reform, strategic circumstances and concessions. Its experience nevertheless demonstrates how flexibility can sometimes protect what courage alone cannot.


The merchant and the soldier


The Portuguese, Dutch and English came to Asian waters seeking profitable commerce. Spices, textiles and other valuable products promised enormous rewards. Yet the distinction between merchant and conqueror was often uncertain. Armed ships protected cargoes, but they could also blockade ports, destroy competitors and compel rulers to grant privileges.


The Portuguese conquest of Malacca in 1511 illustrates this combination. Trade was central to their ambitions, but military conquest was one means of securing it. Commercial motivation did not necessarily imply peaceful methods.


Therefore, Asian rulers faced a difficult problem. Refusing all contact could sacrifice wealth and useful alliances. Accepting every demand could lead to dependence. The essential question was how to trade without surrendering the authority to decide the country’s future.


Thailand’s history offers examples of rulers attempting precisely that balance.


Welcoming the Portuguese


Portuguese diplomatic contact with Siam, as Thailand was then known, began in 1511. The Siamese court received envoys and sent a mission to Goa. An agreement in 1516 linked Portuguese access to settlement and trade with the provision of guns and ammunition and guarantees of religious freedom. Portuguese merchants and military specialists subsequently established themselves in Ayutthaya.


This was a practical exchange. The Portuguese gained commercial opportunities. Siam acquired access to military technology and foreign expertise.


The court did not have to approve of everything Portuguese society represented. Nor did it have to abandon Buddhism to permit foreigners to practise Christianity. It could distinguish between maintaining its own identity and allowing useful outsiders to live within its territory.


That distinction remains valuable. A society confident in its traditions need not regard every foreign practice as an attack upon them. Confidence can make selective acceptance possible.


The lesson is not that hospitality automatically prevents conquest. It is that engagement gives a government more instruments with which to manage a relationship.


Commercial openness required boundaries


Siam’s dealings with Europeans were far from uniformly peaceful. Dutch commercial pressure produced a blockade and the treaty of 1664, which granted the Dutch East India Company privileges, including protections that challenged Siamese understandings of royal jurisdiction. An Indonesian national archival publication discussing King Narai’s correspondence records this tension between foreign commercial demands and the king’s authority.


This is an important qualification to any simple account of friendly traders and accommodating hosts. The Siamese also encountered coercion.


Their experience suggests that commercial openness needed to be accompanied by vigilance. A trading privilege could become a political claim. A foreign settlement could acquire demands for special protection. An ally could become too influential.


Diplomacy therefore involved continual adjustment. The object was to prevent any single relationship from leaving the kingdom without alternatives.


For a smaller country, having several partners can create room to manoeuvre. Dependence on one powerful protector can gradually remove that room.


Mongkut and the difficult choice of compromise


The nineteenth century brought a much greater danger. European imperial power had expanded enormously, and Siam could see the consequences of military inequality around it.


King Mongkut’s government concluded the Bowring Treaty with Britain in 1855. It opened a new phase of commercial relations, but imposed serious limitations on Siamese autonomy. British subjects enjoyed extraterritorial privileges, and the kingdom’s freedom in fiscal and judicial matters was restricted. Other Western powers obtained comparable arrangements.


These were substantial concessions. They should not be romanticised as an entirely equal partnership.


Nevertheless, the decision illustrates an uncomfortable responsibility of leadership: choosing among imperfect possibilities. A government may have to decide whether accepting an immediate disadvantage offers a better prospect of national survival than fighting a war it is unlikely to win.


The argument in favour of compromise is strongest when compromise preserves the capacity to act again later. Retaining a functioning national government can make future recovery possible.


That does not make every concession wise. It means that a concession must be judged against the available alternatives, rather than against an imaginary world in which no sacrifice is necessary.


Preserving independence by strengthening government


Diplomacy would have been a fragile defence if Siam had remained unable to administer its own territory effectively.


Under King Chulalongkorn, reforms replaced older administrative arrangements with ministries possessing clearer responsibilities. Accounting and bureaucratic procedures were improved, while railway construction helped connect Bangkok with distant provinces. Historian Ian Brown identifies effective administration as a central element in the effort to preserve political independence.


Here lies another powerful lesson. Independence depends partly on the quality of government.


A country may proclaim its sovereignty loudly while weakening it through disorder, poor revenue administration and institutions that cannot carry out decisions. Conversely, a government that learns from foreign methods may become better able to resist foreign control.


Borrowing an administrative technique does not require surrendering national identity. The useful question is whether it improves the country’s ability to govern itself.


Thailand’s achievement involved adaptation at home as well as negotiation abroad. Keeping the national flag required strengthening the institutions beneath it.


The price paid in 1893


The limits of accommodation became painfully clear during the confrontation with France in 1893.


French warships advanced towards Bangkok, Siamese defences resisted, and the crisis escalated into an ultimatum and blockade. Siam eventually renounced its claims to territories east of the Mekong and accepted other burdensome conditions. French forces also occupied Chanthaburi as a guarantee of compliance.


This episode disproves the suggestion that Thailand escaped colonial pressure simply by being friendly. It faced force, fought back and suffered losses.


Yet its government survived.


From the perspective of state survival, accepting territorial losses helped preserve the kingdom’s central institutions. From the perspective of the inhabitants of the affected territories, however, the consequences cannot be reduced to a neat diplomatic success.


History’s compromises often distribute suffering unequally. Recognising that does not erase their strategic significance; it makes our assessment more honest.


The Thai experience demonstrates that survival can involve painful choices whose wisdom is easier to recognise afterwards than to accept at the time.


The advantage of geography


Thailand also benefited from circumstances that its rulers did not create.


Britain and France had competing interests in mainland Southeast Asia. In their declaration of January 1896, they agreed that neither would advance forces into a defined central region of Siam without the other’s consent. They also restricted the acquisition of exclusive advantages there. This arrangement helped preserve a separation between their imperial possessions.


Siam’s position thus acquired strategic value beyond its own commercial importance.


It would be misleading to attribute this entirely to superior diplomacy. Geography and imperial rivalry created an opportunity. Siamese diplomacy helped make use of it.


This distinction matters when comparing Thailand with Sri Lanka. Different locations produced different incentives for European powers. We cannot assume that an identical policy would have produced an identical result in both countries.


What can be compared is the ability of rulers to recognise the opportunities available to them and avoid unnecessarily narrowing their choices.


Sri Lanka also welcomed and negotiated


Our own history complicates the idea that Sri Lanka fought while Thailand traded.


The rulers of Kotte maintained commercial and political relations with Portugal. Bhuvanekabahu VII concluded a cinnamon agreement with the Portuguese in 1533. His dealings demonstrate that negotiation and trade were part of Sri Lankan policy from an early stage.


The danger was that a commercial relationship could become entangled with succession disputes and military dependence.


Dharmapala’s position provides a particularly sobering example. In 1580, he executed a will bequeathing Kotte to the Portuguese crown upon his death. Whatever his circumstances and intentions, Portuguese influence had developed far beyond the purchase of cinnamon.


Accommodation therefore offered no automatic protection. A ruler could welcome foreigners and still lose the power to determine the eventual outcome.


The important distinction was between maintaining a useful relationship and becoming dependent upon it. Trade under national authority and protection purchased at the expense of that authority were very different arrangements.


The Dutch alliance and its warning


Kandy’s dealings with the Dutch provide another example of active diplomacy.


In 1638, Rajasinghe II entered into an agreement with the Dutch against the Portuguese. Commercial interests, military expenses and control of captured forts became entangled in the relationship. The eventual removal of Portuguese power did not deliver the coastal independence the king sought; Dutch power took its place.


This was an attempt to use European rivalry, rather than a refusal to engage with Europeans.


Its outcome warns us that the enemy of an enemy may remain a danger. A foreign ally’s assistance has to be understood in relation to its own ambitions.


The comparison with Siam therefore concerns the results of managing foreign relationships, rather than a supposed Sri Lankan inability to conceive of diplomacy.


Sri Lankan rulers negotiated, traded and sought allies. They also confronted powerful outsiders whose commercial aims could be advanced through territorial domination.


The cinnamon tree and the politics of fear


The story attributed to King Senarat—that keeping cinnamon trees in home gardens attracted a death sentence intended to discourage Portuguese interest—is striking. However, without a reliable reference establishing its wording, date and attribution, it should remain an unverified account.


As a political idea, it raises a question worth considering. Should a country reduce the value of its resources to make itself less attractive to outsiders, or develop the capacity to benefit from those resources while protecting its independence?


Destroying economic opportunities may sometimes deny an immediate enemy supplies. As a lasting national strategy, however, deliberate impoverishment carries obvious costs. Fewer productive resources can also mean less revenue, weaker institutions and reduced defensive capacity.


The better aspiration is to make national wealth a source of bargaining power. Achieving that requires competent government, commercial alternatives and an understanding of foreign interests.


The cinnamon story can stimulate this discussion, but should not be used as historical proof until its source is established.


The lesson for us


Thailand’s experience supports the value of commercial engagement, intelligent compromise and learning from outsiders. It also shows that these policies work best when supported by strong institutions and a realistic understanding of power.


Sri Lanka’s experience deserves equal fairness. Resistance was often directed against genuine attempts at domination. Those who defended their country cannot reasonably be blamed for failing to treat invading armies as ordinary customers.


The more useful question is whether, at particular moments, different combinations of negotiation, trade, unity and reform might have improved the chances of preserving independence. That is a question for careful examination, rather than easy accusation.


What impressed me in Thailand was the possibility that flexibility could itself be a form of patriotism.


A ruler’s duty is not fulfilled merely by refusing every demand. Neither is it fulfilled by accepting them all. It lies in judging what must be defended, what can be negotiated and what must be strengthened before the next crisis arrives.


Thailand reminds us that the courage to compromise can sometimes serve a country as well as the courage to fight.

Friday, October 16, 2026

Why can't we compromise




Sometimes, Taking a Step Back Helps a Nation Move Forward


The disagreement over the imprisonment of Ven. Galagoda Aththe Gnanasara Thera raises a question larger than the fate of one individual: can we find a solution that preserves the rule of law while allowing room for dialogue, compassion and dignity?


Some Buddhist monks demand his release. The government maintains that the law cannot be bent for any individual. When positions harden, every concession can begin to look like defeat. Yet history offers powerful examples of leaders who achieved more through compromise than confrontation.


In October 1962, the Cuban Missile Crisis brought the United States and the Soviet Union dangerously close to nuclear war. President John F. Kennedy and Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev both faced enormous pressure to stand firm.


Ultimately, the Soviet Union agreed to remove its missiles from Cuba. The United States pledged not to invade Cuba and privately assured the Soviets that American Jupiter missiles in Turkey would also be removed. Both sides conceded something, helping avert a catastrophic conflict. Their achievement lay in finding a way out that the other could accept.


South Africa provides another lesson. Nelson Mandela and F. W. de Klerk negotiated despite profound mistrust and a bitter history of oppression. Mandela maintained the goal of democracy while negotiating the arrangements for reaching it. Difficult agreements helped make possible the country’s first non-racial national elections in 1994. Compromise concerned the path to change; it did not require accepting apartheid as just.


In Northern Ireland, leaders from communities divided by decades of violence helped secure the Good Friday Agreement in 1998. John Hume and David Trimble showed the courage to seek agreement across deeply entrenched divisions. Making peace required them to persuade their own supporters that negotiating with opponents could serve their communities better than continued confrontation.


Egypt and Israel also found room for agreement after repeated wars. The 1978 Camp David Accords paved the way for their 1979 peace treaty. Israel agreed to withdraw from Sinai, while Egypt agreed to peace and normal relations with Israel. Although the agreement did not resolve the wider Middle Eastern conflict, it demonstrated how reciprocal concessions could transform relations between enemies.


These situations differ greatly from our present dispute. Their shared lesson is that leadership requires both conviction and flexibility.


In Sri Lanka, compromise must respect judicial independence and equality before the law. Dialogue can still address concerns about dignity, religious observance and prison welfare, while requests for release are considered only through lawful procedures. The voices of those affected by the underlying offences must also be heard.


The government can explain its position firmly and respectfully. The protesting monks can pursue their concerns while recognising the responsibilities and limits of public institutions. Both can leave room for a fair outcome without demanding the other’s humiliation.


Any agreement should be transparent enough for the public to understand and fair enough to withstand scrutiny.


A leader’s responsibility extends beyond satisfying the loudest supporters. It includes explaining why a reasonable concession may protect something more valuable than an immediate victory.


Sometimes, the wisest step backward is the one that allows an entire country to move forward.

Thursday, October 15, 2026

The voyage to Siam

 




This story is based on King Kirti Sri Rajasinha’s embassy of 1750–1751, supported by the Dutch, to seek Siamese monks who could restore upasampadā, or higher ordination, in Lanka. Wilbagedara was among its five officials. The dialogue, supporting characters and personal incidents below are imagined. 



When the king asked whether any of us feared the sea, nobody answered.


Five officers stood before him, their hands folded, their eyes respectfully lowered. Behind us, somewhere beyond the palace roofs, a crow was making a great deal of noise.


I remember envying that crow. It could express an opinion without being appointed to an embassy.


King Kirti Sri Rajasinha studied our faces.


“Wilbagedara has travelled to Siam before,” he said. “You will have his experience to guide you.”


Wilbagedara Rala bowed.


Unfortunately, I had already heard some of his experiences.


There had been illness, delays, foreign officials who could not be hurried, and ships whose departures depended upon winds that took no notice of royal commands. Earlier attempts to bring properly ordained monks to Lanka had ended in disappointment.


Now we were to try again.


Beside the king sat the venerable Weliwita Saranankara, thin and composed, with eyes that seemed to notice everything.


For years he had laboured to revive learning and discipline among those who wore the yellow robe. Yet, without a sufficient community of duly ordained monks, higher ordination could not be properly restored.


Books could preserve the rules. They could not, by themselves, perform the ceremony.


We had to bring back a living monk who could preside over the ceremony.


“You carry a request from our kingdom,” the king said. “You must conduct yourselves accordingly.”


I bowed so deeply that the ceremonial sword at my waist struck my ankle.


The crow continued its observations.


---


My wife received the news in silence.


Then she asked, “How far is Siam?”


“Beyond the sea.”


“That is where I understood foreign countries generally to be. How far?”


I spread my hands.


She looked at them.


“So you have accepted a royal appointment without discovering where you are going?”


“One does not question His Majesty about distances.”


“No. One leaves that to one’s wife.”


My eldest son wanted to know whether there were elephants in Siam. My youngest asked whether I could bring him a foreign knife. My mother insisted that I take dried ginger, pepper and a packet of medicine prepared by a physician who had never, to my knowledge, travelled farther than Matale.


My wife packed the medicine anyway.


On our last evening she folded an extra cloth into my bundle.


“For when the others are wet.”


“How will all my clothes become wet?”


She gave me the patient look she used when explaining simple matters to the children.


“You are going on the sea.”


---


Before our departure, Saranankara summoned several of us.


There were palm-leaf manuscripts beside him, their edges darkened by handling. A young pupil sat nearby, patiently repairing a cord.


Wilbagedara discussed the letters, the gifts and the precautions necessary to protect them from dampness.


I listened, troubled by a question I had been ashamed to ask.


At last the venerable teacher turned towards me.


“You have something to say?”


“Venerable sir, there are temples throughout the kingdom. There are robes, sermons and offerings. Will the Siamese king understand why we must come so far?”


He regarded me without displeasure.


“A village may possess a plough,” he said, “and still have nobody who knows how to cultivate its fields.”


The pupil stopped working.


“We have preserved much,” Saranankara continued. “But preservation requires knowledge and discipline. Those must be taught by people qualified to teach them.”


He rested his hand upon the manuscripts.


“Tell them we wish to learn.”


Until then I had thought chiefly of ships, provisions and my own uncertain stomach.


For the first time, I began to understand what we were carrying.


---


We left the hill country with servants, bearers, guards, supplies and the king’s gifts.


There were enough people to give the impression that we intended to establish a small village wherever we stopped.


The royal letters received more attention than any of us. They were wrapped, enclosed and inspected with such care that I began to suspect they would reach Siam in better condition than their bearers.


Wilbagedara examined the fastenings himself.


“Water,” he said, “has no respect for seals.”


Nor, as we discovered, did ants.


At one resting place a servant raised the alarm after finding them approaching a provision basket. Three men rushed forward, and an officer demanded to know whether the royal gifts were threatened.


“Only the jaggery, Ralahamy.”


“Then why are you shouting as though the kingdom has fallen?”


The servant looked wounded.


“There is very little jaggery left.”


We continued through rain-darkened forests and villages where people came out to watch us pass.


Some knew our purpose.


An elderly woman placed a handful of flowers beside the road and bowed as the guarded chests went by.


A small boy asked whether Siam lay beyond the mountains.


“Several mountains,” I told him.


Wilbagedara glanced at me.


“Do not begin your diplomatic career by misleading children.”


---


The Dutch assistance had been arranged through their government in Colombo.


For men accustomed to the Kandyan court, dealing with the Company required adjustments.


A royal instruction might descend from the palace with the force of thunder. A Dutch clerk received an instruction, entered it in a book, consulted another book, and asked who would pay for the paper.


There were questions about our numbers, our baggage, our provisions and our passage.


An interpreter carried our words between us and a Company officer whose pale face appeared permanently dissatisfied with the climate.


The officer asked whether every chest was necessary.


“Yes,” our senior envoy replied.


He asked whether every attendant was necessary.


“Yes.”


He asked whether some baggage could be reduced.


Our senior envoy considered this.


“The attendants might eat less.”


The interpreter hesitated before translating.


Wilbagedara intervened.


Thereafter the discussions proceeded more smoothly.


I watched the Company men with curiosity. They were Christians, merchants and rulers of the coast, yet they were helping us seek Buddhist monks.


When I mentioned this to Wilbagedara, he smiled.


“A man may open a gate because he wishes you well, or because he expects your payment later. Either way, you must still walk through it.”


---


Our party eventually reached Trincomalee, where the ship waited.


I had seen the sea before, but never with the understanding that I must shortly entrust myself to it.


The vessel lay beyond the boats near the shore, her masts rising above the water like trees stripped of their leaves.


Sailors moved along her yards with an ease that seemed indecent.


One of our attendants stood beside me, staring.


“Well?” I asked.


“She looks very strong, Ralahamy.”


“Yes.”


“Will we be inside?”


“Where else?”


He considered the height of the masts.


“I thought perhaps there might be seats above.”


A boat carried us out through the harbour.


Climbing aboard required more effort than entering the palace, although considerably less dignity.


A sailor reached down to help me. I caught his hand, placed one foot incorrectly, and arrived on deck with my upper body before the rest of me.


Wilbagedara was already there.


“Welcome,” he said.


I adjusted my clothing.


“Does everyone board in this manner?”


“Only ambassadors from a particular district of the Kandyan kingdom.”


---


The captain received us with formal courtesy.


He was broad across the shoulders and had a weathered face that suggested long disagreement with the sun. Through an interpreter, he explained where we might sleep, where our goods would be stowed and which parts of the ship we must avoid.


There appeared to be many of the last.


We were not to approach certain ropes, stand beneath moving tackle, obstruct the sailors, or use an open flame without permission.


One officer asked whether our rank would be made known to the crew.


The captain listened to the translation.


Then he replied.


The interpreter looked uncomfortable.


“What did he say?” our officer demanded.


“He says that when the sails are being handled, everyone must move.”


Wilbagedara nodded approvingly.


“A sensible regulation.”


The officer did not agree.


---


For the first few hours after departure, I found the voyage agreeable.


The land withdrew slowly. The wind filled the sails. Water whispered along the hull.


I stood beside the rail, enjoying the unusual sensation of travelling without walking, riding or being shaken in a palanquin.


Then the harbour’s shelter fell behind us.


The deck rose.


My stomach remained where it had been.


A little later the deck fell, and my stomach attempted to follow by another route.


By sunset I had abandoned all interest in foreign kingdoms.


A servant approached with food.


“Take it away.”


“Only a little rice, Ralahamy.”


“Take the rice away.”


“The physician says you should eat.”


“Bring me the physician.”


When the physician arrived, he was holding a basin.


We looked at one another with sudden understanding.


He withdrew.


---


Seasickness made remarkable changes to our company.


A man who insisted upon precedence ashore became willing to share a corner with anybody who possessed a dry mat.


Another, who had spoken confidently about the courage required for the mission, spent a morning requesting that the captain stop.


“Stop where?” Wilbagedara asked.


“Anywhere.”


Wilbagedara himself continued to eat.


I found this difficult to forgive.


By the fourth day I could sit upright. By the sixth I began to believe that survival might be possible.


The physician gave me ginger.


“My mother packed the same.”


“Your mother is a wise woman.”


“Her physician has never been to sea.”


“Neither had I,” he admitted.


---


Once my stomach settled, I began to observe the ship.


Her world was governed by watches, bells and commands. Men climbed, hauled, scrubbed and repaired. The captain studied the sky as our farmers studied the sky when expected rain clouds failed to appear.


There were sailors of different origins aboard, speaking languages I could not distinguish.


We learned to communicate through gestures.


One cheerful sailor taught one of our attendants several words, which the fellow repeated proudly until the interpreter heard him and ordered him to stop.


“What do they mean?” I asked.


The interpreter shook his head.


“Nothing suitable for presentation to the King of Siam.”


Thereafter we treated the sailor’s lessons with caution.


At night I sometimes remained on deck.


Beyond the ship’s lights, the sea disappeared into darkness. Stars crowded the sky. I thought of my wife closing our door, my children sleeping, and the familiar sounds of insects outside our house.


Here there was only the wind, the creaking timber and water moving endlessly past. 


---


During one spell of rough weather, rain drove across the deck so fiercely that the nearest mast became indistinct.


The sailors shortened sail.


Orders passed above us.


Below, our company sat among secured bundles while the ship rolled heavily.


A chest shifted.


Two attendants seized it, and a third began reciting verses.


I joined him.


There was no shame in remembering the teachings more readily when several lengths of timber stood between oneself and the bottom of the ocean.


Wilbagedara came to inspect the royal letters.


His hair and clothes were soaked.


“Are they safe?” I asked.


He checked the coverings before answering.


“Yes.”


“And the ship?”


He paused.


“The captain is still giving orders.”


I found this a better reassurance than anything the physician offered. 


---


Our passage involved waiting as well as sailing.


At Batavia, the Company’s great eastern settlement, ships and warehouses seemed to occupy an entire world of their own.


There were canals, crowded markets, carts, soldiers, merchants and labourers carrying burdens beneath the heat.


I heard more languages in a morning than I had heard in all my life.


One attendant bought fruit he did not recognise, ate it, and then became frightened that it might be poisonous.


“Why did you eat it first?” the physician asked.


“The seller looked trustworthy.”


The physician examined the remains.


“Well?”


“I suggest you ask him its name.”


The delay wore upon us.


We asked when we would continue.


Soon, we were told.


After several such assurances, our senior envoy demanded a precise explanation.


Wilbagedara answered before the interpreter could speak.


“Here, ‘soon’ means that they have not forgotten us.”


---


As the voyage continued, Wilbagedara spoke more often of Siam.


He described a broad river, boats crowded with goods, monasteries and a royal city where waterways carried people as roads did in our own country.


“Are their monks like ours?” I asked.


“You will recognise the robes.”


“And their speech?”


“You may recognise very little.”


This troubled me.


“How shall we explain everything?”


“We have interpreters. We have letters.”


He looked towards the chest.


“And there is Pali.”


I thought of chief priest Saranankara’s pupils bending over their manuscripts in Kandy.


Words learned patiently beneath a tiled roof might travel farther than any of us.


---


One morning the water changed colour.


The deep blue had given way to a clouded brown, and floating vegetation passed the ship.


Birds appeared.


A sailor pointed towards a low line on the horizon.


For some time I could distinguish nothing.


Then the coast emerged.


No steep hills rose behind it. The land lay almost level with the water, green and unfamiliar beneath the morning haze.


“Siam,” Wilbagedara said.


Nobody made a speech.


One attendant laughed, another folded his hands, and the physician sat down abruptly upon a coil of rope.


I found myself gripping the rail.


After months of preparation, discomfort, delay and fear, the country had become something we could see.


Boats approached as we neared the river mouth.


The men aboard them called our sailors. Their words meant nothing to me, but their gestures were wonderfully ordinary: a pointing hand, a request to wait, a warning about distance.


A pilot came aboard.


Beyond him lay the river that would carry us towards Ayutthaya and the court of King Borommakot.




Wilbagedara ordered our formal clothes brought out.


I opened my bundle and found the extra cloth my wife had packed.


It was dry.


For a moment I held it without unfolding it.


Then a small boat passed close beneath the ship.


Among its passengers sat a monk in a yellow robe, his alms bowl resting beside him.


He looked up.


Wilbagedara joined his palms.


The monk returned the greeting.


There had been no interpreter, no royal letter, no clerk reaching for another book.


I bowed too.


We had arrived in Siam.


---



Fighting invasions

. Trading with the World, Preserving a Kingdom: What Sri Lanka Can Learn from Thailand Travelling through Thailand, I was struck by somethin...